When I was in Kobe, I took a slight detour before my meeting to visit Sumadera Temple. The temple was originally built in 886. I visited this temple when I lived in Kobe 24 years ago and wanted to see it again.
The temple is famous for its proximity to a famous Heike battle and the location of an episode from the Tale of the Heike, a classic example of Japanese medieval literature.
In 1184, at the end of the battle of Ichi no Tani, Kumagai Naozane (1141-1208) came riding along the beach looking to intercept a leader of the fleeing Heike army. He spotted a single horseman with a finely arrayed horse.
Naozane attacked and managed to wrestle his adversary to the ground and remove his helmet.
To his surprise, it was a young sixteen year old boy. He thought of this own son who was wounded in the battle, and having pity on him, thought to spare his life. But, at that moment, 50 of his fellow samurai came riding into view. Kumagai knew the youth would die and decided to deal the final blow himself with the promise to see that prayers were said for the boy.
Weeping bitterly he cut of the boy's head. Kumagai was so affected by the cruelty of war that he later became a Buddhist priest.
The boy was Taira no Atsumori (1169-1184), a noble from the enemy clan. Kumagai found among his posessions a fine flute that was a gift from the Emperor Toba. When Kumagai brought the flute to his Commander, all who saw it were moved to tears.
The flute is kept in Sumadera.
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